Factory manuals and transgression service manuals list the recommended service intervals of the transmission at an average of 30,000 miles. 

Be sure to check the OE requirement for each transmission for the exact mileage. In severe duty,  the intervals of changes will be shortened. 

Be sure to use the proper transmission fluid and additives as recommended by the OEM vehicle manufacturer. 

Transmission fluid is a multi-application fluid. It lubricates, is a coolant, and is a hydraulic fluid operation the transmission. 

Dirty fluid and filters cause a drop in the fluid circulation rates, causing more heat build-up, which causes the transmission fluid to deteriorate and oxidize, which causes the burnt smell and becomes very sticky. This condition creates excessive wear. 

Excessive heat is the number one cause for transmission failure. 

A restriction in the flow of the transmission fluid can result in major heat build-up and transmission damage.

The restriction affects the hydraulic pressure, resulting in slippage leading to accelerated wear on clutches, bands, or other internal components.

Keeping the transmission system clean is very important. Removing any contamination that can interfere with the operation of transmission components, such as valve bodies and solenoids, will promote a longer transmission life.

Shocks and Struts reduce vehicle weight transfer providing superior handling through the toughest conditions. Replace worn shocks and struts to help improve vehicle handling characteristics and comfort. Good news! A fresh set of shocks can enhance more than just your ride. They help improve braking and handling under certain driving conditions, and they make vehicles safer and easier to control. This helps make the road safer for everyone. 

Interconnected undercar parts that could affect a driver's ability to avoid accidents are stopping, steering, and stability. 

If you see or experience any of these symptoms call Cloquet Automotive at 218-879-1974 or your local automotive service provider. Protect what's important -- follow technicians's suggestions. 

Due to the electronics and newer technologies the recommended mileage between "tune-ups" or spark plug replacement has gone up to 30,000, 60,000 and even 100,000 miles! This means a $250 tune-up nowadays is cheaper than the 2 or 3 tune-ups you would've needed with the same amount of mileage. that were done for $100 25 years ago. Especially when you compare what $100 was worth then. Distributors are now gone and even spark plug wires are missing from many applications. Forget those adjustments, the onboard computer handles fuel mixture, timing and idle speed control. On many of the newer cars, just spark plugs, fuel and air filters, and PCV valves remain of the items that we used to consider part of a "tune up". Someday the spark plugs may disappear as well. Only time will tell.

Because the word "tune up" can mean so many different things the manufactures don’t list tune ups in their maintenance schedules. They list the items individually at specific miles or duration of time.

Ignition systems have become much more reliable over the years. Many engines don't even have distributors anymore; they use a DIS or Direct Ignition System. These systems can either mount one ignition coil on each spark plug, or share one coil for two plugs, thus eliminating the need of a distributor.

On engines that still use a distributor, it is a good idea to replace the distributor cap, distributor rotor and ignition wires according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

The spark plugs need to be replaced on a regular basis as well. Even though some manufacturers have extended those intervals to 100,000 miles, this doesn't apply to all engines. The best plug to use is the one the manufacturer recommends. This information is usually found on an engine decal located under the hood.

Belt basics
Perhaps the most critical engine component these days is the timing belt. Most manufacturers suggest replacing the timing belt every 60,000 miles.

Not all engines use a timing belt, but on those that do, it's critical that it be replaced before it breaks. If your car has an interference engine where the valves and pistons occupy the same place in the combustion chamber at different times, serious engine damage can occur if the belt breaks while operating. If your car has a non-interference engine, the worst that will happen is you get stranded somewhere.

Other engine drive belts should be checked on a regular basis — about as often as you change oil. In general, you should look for excessively cracked, glazed or frayed belts. Many accessories — including the alternator, power steering pump and coolant pump — are operated by drive belts. If these belts break or slip, the components they drive will fail to work, leaving you stranded.

One more thing to check while you're looking at the belts is the battery. Virtually all batteries are maintenance-free these days, except for a periodic terminal cleaning and inspection for cracks or leaks. In addition, ensure the battery is mounted securely.

Tire tips
Tires are one of the most important maintenance items under your car. The best way to get the most out of your tires is by having them rotated and balanced on a regular basis, about every 7,500 miles. This ensures they wear evenly and last as long as possible.

Balancing is important to eliminate vibration at road speeds, and a properly balanced tire reduces the stress and strain on shocks, struts and steering parts. Keeping the tire pressures set to specification will also go a long way in extending tire life and fuel economy.

Seeing clearly
Finally, you should get in the habit of replacing your wiper blades once a year. The Car Care Council recommends replacing them each spring, when you set your clocks forward for Daylight Savings Time.

Wiper refills are the most inexpensive safety feature on your vehicle. And if you doubt having good wipers is a safety feature, try driving with bad ones in a downpour at night.

If you live in an area that suffers cold and snowy winters, you may want to change to winter blades in the fall and go back to regular blades in the spring.

Following a regular vehicle maintenance program is the best insurance you have against unexpected breakdowns and expensive repairs. It also pays dividends by allowing you to get the most out of your transportation investment.

With a little forethought and TLC, that family chariot can reliably deliver a couple of hundred thousand miles of service.


If you have any further questions about "tune-ups" on your particular vehicle Cloquet Automotive is always here to help. Remember: "If you can't fix it the Trannyman can!"


218-879-1974
Cloquet Automotive
1310 18th Street 
Cloquet, MN 55720

This was an email sent to me. I do not know who to give credit to, but it definitely deserves a share! Read and enjoy! 

 Ever wonder why a Top Fuel dragster gets a rebuilt engine after each run?

Stay with this - even if you aren't a 'car nut', this is stunning.

* One Top Fuel dragster outfitted with a 500 cubic-inch replica Dodge (actually Keith Black, etc) Hemi engine makes more horsepower (8,000 HP) than the first 4 rows of cars at NASCAR's Daytona 500.

* Under full throttle, a dragster engine will consume 11.2 gallons of nitro methane per second;

a fully loaded Boeing 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate but with 25% less energy being produced.

* A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to even drive the dragster's supercharger.

* With 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition. Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lockup at full throttle.

* At the stoichio-metric 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture for nitro methane the flame front temperature measures 7050 degrees F.

* Nitro methane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases.

* Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. Which is typically the output of a small electric arc welder in each cylinder.

* Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After 1/2 way thru the run, the engine is 'dieseling' from compression and the glow of the exhaust valves at 1400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow.

* If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with enough force to blow the cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half !!


* Dragsters reach over 300 MPH +... before you have completed reading this sentence.

* In order to exceed 300 MPH in 4.5 seconds, a dragster must accelerate an average of over 4 G's. In order to reach 200 MPH well before reaching half-track, at launch the acceleration approaches 8 G's.


* Top Fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light!

* Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load.

* The redline is actually quite high at 9500 RPM.

* THE BOTTOM LINE: Assuming all the equipment is paid for, the pit crew is working for free,
& NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run will cost an estimated $1,000 per second.


0 to 100 MPH in .8 seconds (the first 60 feet of the run)

0 to 200 MPH in 2.2 seconds (the first 350 feet of the run)

6 G-forces at the starting line (nothing accelerates faster on land)

6 negative G-forces upon deployment of twin 'chutes at 300 MPH


An NHRA Top Fuel Dragster accelerates quicker than any other land vehicle on earth ...

quicker than a jet fighter plane ... quicker than the space shuttle ... or snapping your fingers!

The current Top Fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.42 seconds for the quarter-mile (2004, Doug Kalitta).

     (I think the time is now closer to 4 seconds, M.)

The top speed record is 337.58 MPH as measured over the last 66' of the run (2005, Tony Schumacher).

Up date to this there only going 1000 feet( 320 feel less than 1/4 mile) they do it in 3.7 seconds and around 332 mph with 10,000 horse power now. with 90% nitromethane 10% alcohol. THEY THOUGHT THEY WERE GOING TOO FAST FOR 1/4 MILE AND COULDNT STOP.

Let's now put this all into perspective:

Imagine this: You're driving a new $140,000 Lingenfelter twin-turbo powered Corvette Z-06. Over a mile up the road, a Top Fuel dragster is staged & ready to 'launch' down a quarter-mile strip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette hard, on up through the gears and blast across the starting line & pass the dragster at an honest 200 MPH. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that exact moment. The dragster departs & starts after you. You keep your foot buried hard to the floor, and suddenly you hear an incredibly brutally screaming whine that seares and pummels your eardrums & within a mere 3 seconds the dragster effortlessly catches & passes you.  He beats you to the finish line, a quarter-mile away from where you just passed him. Think about it – from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 MPH.  And it not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the planet when he passed you within a mere 1320 foot long race!


That, my friends is acceleration.

Here are some gas saving tips from the pros at the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE).

Monitor tires. Under inflated tires or poorly aligned wheels waste fuel by forcing the engine to work harder. (Let the tires cool down before checking the air pressure.) Out-of-line wheels, as evidenced by uneven tread wear, should be aligned by a professional.

Remove excess weight. Remove unnecessary items from the vehicle. Store only essentials in the trunk. Less weight means better mileage.

Consolidate trips and errands. Some trips may be unnecessary. Also, try to travel when traffic is light so you can avoid stop-and-go conditions.

Avoid excessive idling. Shut off the engine while waiting for friends and family.

Observe speed limits. Speeding decreases your miles per gallon.

Drive gently. Sudden accelerations guzzle gas. Anticipate traffic patterns ahead and adjust your speed gradually.

Use windows and air conditioning wisely. Your mileage should improve if you keep the windows closed at highway speeds, since air drag is reduced. This is true even with the air conditioning on-assuming that the system is in good working order. But turn the air conditioning off in stop-and-go traffic to save fuel.

Keep your engine "tuned up." A well-maintained engine operates at peak efficiency, maximizing gas mileage. Follow the service schedules listed in the owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended; have engine performance problems (rough idling, poor acceleration, etc.) corrected at a repair facility. Given today's high-tech engines, it's wise to have this type of work done by auto technicians who are ASE certified in engine performance.

These conservation tips will not only save gasoline, they'll help extend the life of your vehicle. Win-win, indeed.

Remember when the THM 700R4, now more commonly know as the 4L60/E, transmission was introduced in the early eighties.  The  700 transmission drove the industry crazy with broken pump vane rings, burned 2-4 bands, premature 3-4 clutch failure, sprag failures, planet failures, etc. I'm sure you remember the first few high performance transmissions? During the mid to late eighties, many performance and durability products had been developed so that the 700 could be successfully repaired in average vehicles as well as for high performance street strip vehicles. 

I will discuss some of the principal areas for high performance modifications. Although there will be discussion on hydraulic controls, the various high performance, after market valve body kits, work very well whether it's for furnishing very short and firm tire chirping shifts in an IROC-Z , or ferocious shifts in a drag strip 11.52 et runner. Valve body kits offer convenience, since most are packaged with parts and data to modify main line pressure, shift scheduling, shift feel and firmness, detent downshifts etc. The parts and technical information also coordinate with the separator plate orifice sizes, 2-4 servo pistons, accumulators etc. For all installations, we suggest that you follow the instructions carefully. Write down every step that you perform. This way, if a calibration change is needed, you will at least have a reference point. 

Okay, let's build this 700 to be a winner! You, the transmission, and whomever the customer is will be a winner too!

This servo piston technical information has been around for years but since it's really important for high performance usage, let's quickly review it. Look at the casting number stamped into the second servo piston. There are three different size second servo pistons identified by the last three digits of the casting number which are 553, 554, and 093.  Corvettes came with the 093 piston. For short, firm, but fairly comfortable shifts for street  use start off with the 553 piston. For street and strip use or for big blocks and high-rev small blocks, or for tire chirping shifts to show off, use the Corvette 093 piston. For brutal, tire peeling shifts, a billet servo setup is available, however, use this setup with caution: The maximum throttle 1-2 shift will be really firm which can cause the sun shell to fail from overload. Never use the 554 piston in a performance application: You can burn up the 2-4 band over the weekend.

Located in the valve body, there are six known different size accumulator valves used in the 700. There is a letter code stamped into the end of the valve bushing. Letter codes A and N will provide the firmest shift while letter M provides excellent overall operation in passenger vehicles, trucks, and some low geared sports cars. Letters K, F, B should not be used in performance or heavy duty applications. Once you have chosen the right accumulator valve for your application, you are going to need the spring specifications. For the A and N valves, begin with a two pound, six ounce, spring at ta reference height of .073". For code M, start with a three pound spring at the same reference height. These specifications will help you to coordinate with the accumulator piston trim spring(s), second orifice feed, and the servo piston you're installing.

Most valve body kits will contain a heavier tension spring for the pressure regulator valve, to increase pressure. For the boost systems, begin by checking the size of the intermediate boost valve  by measuring the long, smaller land. If it measures below .297", you very likely will not achieve a short, firm, tire chirping manual 1-2 shift. The . 297 inch valve and bushing is available from GM or your parts distributor under part number 8648959. Now check the land opposite the stem end of the TV boost valve. Don't use a size less than .422 inch. The .433 inch valve is suitable for street and strip cars, trucks, Vettes, and IROC's. For big blocks or highly modified small blocks, use the .471 inch boost valve. The .422 inch boost valve and bushing is available under part number 8634941, the .471 inch setup is 9634940.

IMPORTANT TECH NOTE: On most high-rev applications, an upshift to second can occur even though the selector is in manual one. Installing the #8648959 .297 inch setup will keep the unit in first with the selector in manual one right up to floating the valves, however, at moderately higher speed, the unit will go into first if the selector is pulled into manual one after an upshift to second or third gear.

Be careful and thoughtfull here. Given the right road conditions, this can cause loss of vehicle control. Be sure to caution your customer! Having him or her sign a waiver or disclaimer ont he repair order might be a good idea. Installing a heavier pressure regulator valve spring only and ignoring these two boost systems could lead to sup standard performacne and many hours of rework so why not Fix It Right The First Time!

High performance, heavy duty and even light duty 700's have been known to experience premature 3-4 clutch failure or distress. This durability concern can be easily and effectively prevented by utilizing several options after confirming that the pressure rise control system is functioning properly. Check it with a gauge!

One option is to install standard thickness high capacity or high energy friction plates readily available from your parts distributor. These friction plates use use a special composition of friction paper for heavy duty and performance applications. Another option is to install thinner friction and steel plates-which are available through the aftermarket-allowing you to install as many as eight or nine friction's. When the eight or nine friction pack applies, the energy of the apply is distributed over more surface area therefore the clutch pack is able to hold much more torque load as opposed to the original capacity. In addition to increasing the torque holding power it also adds much more resiliency and an accumulative value to the clutch pack.

With an eight or nine friction pack installed, you can increase the third feed orifice to as much as .180 inch without experiencing a cut loose-providing that the pressure rise control system and everything else in the unit is functioning properly. If the third feed is between .093 inch - .110 inch and you desire additional high throttle firmness, remove the 2-4 servo assembly, and replace the original band release spring with a stock THM 400 intermediate band spring number 8623489.

When using the eight or nine clutch pack, we suggest using the red friction plates with either the dull or Kolene steel plates. If you purchase these plates separately instead of in kit form, ask your distributor for the four page instruction sheet which contains valuable technical information as well as stack-up procedures.

When building this unit for really heavy duty or high performance application, we suggest installing the heavy duty low-reverse planet with the deflector shield and matching output gear support. Always replace the sprag assembly on any 700 that has over 30,00 miles on it. using medium grit emery paper, hand sand the input sprag races. This unit needs a near perfect pump to maintain enough pressure and volume at high revs. your parts distributor can furnish you a high-rev pump ring kit with priming spring that reduces high-rev slide flutter and can handle up to 8,000 rpm. There are also relined 2-4 bands available with the red high performance paper. With this band, on manual high throttle 1-2 you'll spin the tires for sure! Finally, if the unit doesn't shift at the right time and/or doesn't shift firm enough, check and confirm that the main line pressure rise system is functioning properly before you start changing springs, servos, orifice sized and so on. If you don't check pressure rise...you'll be on a witch hunt for many hours. Fix It Right The First Time, so you and the transmission can both be winners!   

Numbers and Measurements from ATRA's
-GEARS Magazine May 1997