• Home
  • Services
  • Specials
  • Blog
  • Location
  • Testimonials
  • About Us
Cloquet Automotive - Transmission Specialists

What Can You Learn from the Color and Smell of Automatic Transmission Fluid?

8/26/2013

7 Comments

 
There's a  lot you can learn about the condition of your transmission just by examining the fluid. Today, many manufacturers have begun to stray from the traditional red color. Transmission fluids may be green, yellow, some may even have a bluish tint. But in virtually every case, clean fluid will look clean and smell clean. So checking the fluid’s color and giving it a little sniff is a great indication of whether your transmission is in good shape, or in need of service.

Here are the basic conditions you are looking for:
New Transmission Fluid
New Transmission Fluid
New transmission fluid is usually transparent, and relatively odorless. A few years ago, virtually every transmission fluid was red; technicians would aptly describe a transmission with exceptionally clean fluid as being "cherry."  Clean, Clear Fluid, with Virtually No Odor— the fluid’s like new. Chances are the transmission’s working fine. Use the vehicle mileage or time since it was last serviced to determine whether you should have the transmission serviced.
Picture
Slightly Burnt Transmission Fluid


Slight Brownish Tint, with a Lightly Burnt Odor— the fluid’s beginning to burn, and is probably due for a service. If you didn’t have the fluid exchanged completely the last time you had the transmission serviced, you may just be looking at the old oil that was left in the transmission. As long as the transmission seems to be working okay, consider a complete fluid exchange service in the not-too-distant future.
Picture
Burnt Transmission Fluid

Brown Color, with a Distinctly Burnt or Varnished Odor— the fluid’s burnt, and you may already be experiencing transmission operating problems. If the trans seems to be operating okay, you might still get away with a complete fluid exchange service and filter replacement. But there’s little doubt that the transmission is beginning to wear, so the best you can expect from a service is to buy some time. Eventually you’ll be facing a transmission job.
Picture
Severely Burnt Transmission Fluid
Black Color, with a Stench that Will Make Your Toes Curl— the fluid’s severely burnt, and the transmission probably is, too. You’re probably experiencing a serious transmission operating failure. A service at this point will usually be a complete waste of money; the trans is going to need a rebuild. And there’s the possibility of related problems, such as a clogged trans cooler or a cooling system problem. Make sure you have these systems checked at the same time, to avoid a second transmission failure.
Of course, fluid condition isn’t the only thing technicians check when examining a transmission’s condition. They also look at operating condition, computer system codes, and any loose material in the pan, to name just a few. Oil condition is just one of a series of clues they use to diagnose transmission condition.

If you’re unsure of whether your transmission fluid indicates a problem, stop by Cloquet Automotive at 1310 18th street Cloquet, MN, 55720 or call us at 218-879-1974.  We would be happy to help you out.
7 Comments

High Performance Tips for GM's THM 700R4

8/19/2013

4 Comments

 
Pontiac FirebirdTHM 700R4 - 4L60 Transmission
Remember when the THM 700R4, now more commonly know as the 4L60/E, transmission was introduced in the early eighties.  The  700 transmission drove the industry crazy with broken pump vane rings, burned 2-4 bands, premature 3-4 clutch failure, sprag failures, planet failures, etc. I'm sure you remember the first few high performance transmissions? During the mid to late eighties, many performance and durability products had been developed so that the 700 could be successfully repaired in average vehicles as well as for high performance street strip vehicles. 

I will discuss some of the principal areas for high performance modifications. Although there will be discussion on hydraulic controls, the various high performance, after market valve body kits, work very well whether it's for furnishing very short and firm tire chirping shifts in an IROC-Z , or ferocious shifts in a drag strip 11.52 et runner. Valve body kits offer convenience, since most are packaged with parts and data to modify main line pressure, shift scheduling, shift feel and firmness, detent downshifts etc. The parts and technical information also coordinate with the separator plate orifice sizes, 2-4 servo pistons, accumulators etc. For all installations, we suggest that you follow the instructions carefully. Write down every step that you perform. This way, if a calibration change is needed, you will at least have a reference point. 

Okay, let's build this 700 to be a winner! You, the transmission, and whomever the customer is will be a winner too!

Intermediate Servo Piston

This servo piston technical information has been around for years but since it's really important for high performance usage, let's quickly review it. Look at the casting number stamped into the second servo piston. There are three different size second servo pistons identified by the last three digits of the casting number which are 553, 554, and 093.  Corvettes came with the 093 piston. For short, firm, but fairly comfortable shifts for street  use start off with the 553 piston. For street and strip use or for big blocks and high-rev small blocks, or for tire chirping shifts to show off, use the Corvette 093 piston. For brutal, tire peeling shifts, a billet servo setup is available, however, use this setup with caution: The maximum throttle 1-2 shift will be really firm which can cause the sun shell to fail from overload. Never use the 554 piston in a performance application: You can burn up the 2-4 band over the weekend.

Accumulator Valve

Located in the valve body, there are six known different size accumulator valves used in the 700. There is a letter code stamped into the end of the valve bushing. Letter codes A and N will provide the firmest shift while letter M provides excellent overall operation in passenger vehicles, trucks, and some low geared sports cars. Letters K, F, B should not be used in performance or heavy duty applications. Once you have chosen the right accumulator valve for your application, you are going to need the spring specifications. For the A and N valves, begin with a two pound, six ounce, spring at ta reference height of .073". For code M, start with a three pound spring at the same reference height. These specifications will help you to coordinate with the accumulator piston trim spring(s), second orifice feed, and the servo piston you're installing.

Main Line Pressure & Boost Systems *(really important!)*

Most valve body kits will contain a heavier tension spring for the pressure regulator valve, to increase pressure. For the boost systems, begin by checking the size of the intermediate boost valve  by measuring the long, smaller land. If it measures below .297", you very likely will not achieve a short, firm, tire chirping manual 1-2 shift. The . 297 inch valve and bushing is available from GM or your parts distributor under part number 8648959. Now check the land opposite the stem end of the TV boost valve. Don't use a size less than .422 inch. The .433 inch valve is suitable for street and strip cars, trucks, Vettes, and IROC's. For big blocks or highly modified small blocks, use the .471 inch boost valve. The .422 inch boost valve and bushing is available under part number 8634941, the .471 inch setup is 9634940.

IMPORTANT TECH NOTE: On most high-rev applications, an upshift to second can occur even though the selector is in manual one. Installing the #8648959 .297 inch setup will keep the unit in first with the selector in manual one right up to floating the valves, however, at moderately higher speed, the unit will go into first if the selector is pulled into manual one after an upshift to second or third gear.

Be careful and thoughtfull here. Given the right road conditions, this can cause loss of vehicle control. Be sure to caution your customer! Having him or her sign a waiver or disclaimer ont he repair order might be a good idea. Installing a heavier pressure regulator valve spring only and ignoring these two boost systems could lead to sup standard performacne and many hours of rework so why not Fix It Right The First Time!

3-4 Clutch Pack

High performance, heavy duty and even light duty 700's have been known to experience premature 3-4 clutch failure or distress. This durability concern can be easily and effectively prevented by utilizing several options after confirming that the pressure rise control system is functioning properly. Check it with a gauge!

One option is to install standard thickness high capacity or high energy friction plates readily available from your parts distributor. These friction plates use use a special composition of friction paper for heavy duty and performance applications. Another option is to install thinner friction and steel plates-which are available through the aftermarket-allowing you to install as many as eight or nine friction's. When the eight or nine friction pack applies, the energy of the apply is distributed over more surface area therefore the clutch pack is able to hold much more torque load as opposed to the original capacity. In addition to increasing the torque holding power it also adds much more resiliency and an accumulative value to the clutch pack.

With an eight or nine friction pack installed, you can increase the third feed orifice to as much as .180 inch without experiencing a cut loose-providing that the pressure rise control system and everything else in the unit is functioning properly. If the third feed is between .093 inch - .110 inch and you desire additional high throttle firmness, remove the 2-4 servo assembly, and replace the original band release spring with a stock THM 400 intermediate band spring number 8623489.

When using the eight or nine clutch pack, we suggest using the red friction plates with either the dull or Kolene steel plates. If you purchase these plates separately instead of in kit form, ask your distributor for the four page instruction sheet which contains valuable technical information as well as stack-up procedures.

Odds And Ends

When building this unit for really heavy duty or high performance application, we suggest installing the heavy duty low-reverse planet with the deflector shield and matching output gear support. Always replace the sprag assembly on any 700 that has over 30,00 miles on it. using medium grit emery paper, hand sand the input sprag races. This unit needs a near perfect pump to maintain enough pressure and volume at high revs. your parts distributor can furnish you a high-rev pump ring kit with priming spring that reduces high-rev slide flutter and can handle up to 8,000 rpm. There are also relined 2-4 bands available with the red high performance paper. With this band, on manual high throttle 1-2 you'll spin the tires for sure! Finally, if the unit doesn't shift at the right time and/or doesn't shift firm enough, check and confirm that the main line pressure rise system is functioning properly before you start changing springs, servos, orifice sized and so on. If you don't check pressure rise...you'll be on a witch hunt for many hours. Fix It Right The First Time, so you and the transmission can both be winners!   
Numbers and Measurements from ATRA's
-GEARS Magazine May 1997 
4 Comments

Want To Get More Miles Out Of Your Vehicle's Transmission?

8/9/2013

1 Comment

 
Did you just spend a lot of money for a new transmission? Perhaps you know someone who did? Whatever the case may be you’d like to avoid major transmission repairs in the future, whether they are for your vehicle, or not. This makes sense because transmission repairs are expensive and no one is a fan of spending money these days -- especially for car repair. The most common cause of automatic transmission failure is heat. You can get more miles out of your transmission by reducing the heat that builds up during normal operation. As a transmission rebuild/repair shop for over thirty years now, we know a thing or two about transmissions, and would like to fill you in on a number of things you can do to keep your vehicle's transmission working properly for years to come. Some involve service maintenance; others involve changing your driving habits.  


Here are a few things you can do to help reduce heat, and keep your transmission working longer:

Service

1.  Check the Transmission Fluid Regularly.

Few things will reduce transmission operation and longevity more than low or damaged fluid. If your car has a transmission dipstick, you should check the transmission fluid level and condition at least once a month.

2.  Have the Transmission Serviced Regularly.
Regular fluid and filter changes can add years onto your transmission’s life. In fact, it’s probably the most cost effective maintenance procedure available.

3.  Add an External Filter in the Cooler Line.

While the filter inside the transmission usually does a good job of removing dirt and particles from the fluid, an extra filter in the cooler line is a great way to make sure of removing all the abrasive particles that can damage your car’s transmission.

4.  Check the Air Pressure in Your Tires.

Believe it or not, low tire pressure can rob you of miles from your gas tank, your tires, and the rest of your car...especially the transmission. The extra load caused by low tire pressure can seriously shorten your transmission’s life. Check the tire pressures at least once a month, and keep them filled to the factory recommendation found on the tire wall of your tires.

Driving

1.  Avoid Jackrabbit Starts.

Hard acceleration creates a lot of friction and heat in the transmission. Take it easy on the gas, and your transmission will live longer.

2.  Help the Shift.

Most of the friction and wear in the transmission takes place during the shifts. Get to know when your transmission shifts normally. Then, just before the shift, back off on the gas just a bit. That’ll reduce the load on the clutches, and eliminate much of the friction during the shift.

3.  Keep the Cooling System in Good Shape.

Your car’s radiator also provides cooling for your transmission. Heat damage will take place in the transmission long before the engine appears to overheat. Regular cooling system service can help your transmission run cooler and last longer.

4.  Add a Transmission Cooler.

If you travel a lot in extremely high temperatures or carry a lot of weight in your car or truck, an auxiliary transmission cooler is a great way to reduce heat and add years to your transmission’s life.


1 Comment
    Cloquet Automotive Transmission Specialists

    Follow @CloqAuto

    Cloquet Automotive

    Transmission Specialist for over 30 years!  

    Categories

    All
    Acceleration
    Battery
    Brakes
    Car Care Tips
    Deals/Coupons/Specials
    Diagnostics
    Differential/Drivetrain
    Fuel Economy
    Performance
    Powertrain
    Safety
    Shocks & Struts
    Summer
    Suspension/Steering
    Tires
    Transmission
    Winter

    RSS Feed

    Archives

    July 2017
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    October 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    March 2014
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.